References to parts of a series of articles on the overhaul of the Ford Focus 2 suspension.
Part 1. How to buy original spare parts in 2 times cheaper by the example of a kit for installing front shock absorber racks
Part 2. Replacement of front shock absorbers.
Part 3. Replacing the levers of the rear suspension.
Part 4. Replacing the steering tips.
Part 5. Replacing stabilizer posts.
Part 6. Wheel alignment.
Greetings to all.
Well, that's the time to write the next part of the series "Overhaul of the Focus 2 suspension".
The theme of this part will be "Replacing the levers of the rear suspension."
Demolition is a mandatory procedure after replacing the spring-loaded levers.
It is desirable to produce works together.
I'll first make a small, but important digression on the topic of choosing spring-loaded levers.
The levers of the spring-loaded rear suspension on the Ford Focus 2 are of 2 types:
1) Curved levers (I have exactly these, the stabilizer posts on them have the form of the letter D) (there are absolutely no analogs)
2) straight levers (the levers themselves are straight, stabilizer posts are also used straight) (there are analogues of the firm Mayle — it is possible to buy immediately a set of all rear levers — I can not say anything about the quality)
WARNING! If you buy the wrong levers, then neither the stabilizer nor the stabilizer bars will do. (there were people who managed to straighten out straight levers in place of old curves with crooked pillars of Stub, which were bolted just under crazy corners — there is no talk about normal functioning).
IMPORTANT! Razlnye bolts, nuts and washers must necessarily buy one manufacturer (different threads from Ford and Mazda exactly 100%). It is better to buy new ones so that there will be no problems with camping. p / s razalnye bolts, etc. from Ford are more expensive in 2 times and not the fact that it is better.
Ridge bolt, left Ford, right Mazda
Why change levers?
90% of cases of replacement of levers — stratification of silent blocks. Some want to save money — buy only silents and re-press them, but it will not lead to anything good, because in steel levers they normally can not be pressed in, as a result they will start to fall out — you will try to seize them with welding, which can damage the silent itself …
1. Suspension lever rear spring-loaded Ford — 1 548 460 — 3200r 2pcs (curved levers only original)
2. Suspension lever rear transverse lower Ford — 1 703 145 — 1346r 2pcs (finis from the focus3, at the end of ff2 1061668 more expensive in 2 times — as usual in the style of Ford)
3. Mazda crushing bolt — BP4K-28-66ZB — 271p 2 pcs.
4. Eccentric washer Mazda — BP4K-28-473A — 133p 2pcs
5. Nut Mazda — 9YB1-01-209 — 170p 2pcs
In addition to keys and ratchets with heads it is desirable to buy:
1. Gas dish (about 500r) — at me both bolts of the bottom arms have completely become attached to silencers — it was necessary to fuse with a burner of a silencer on old levers to pull them out, 1 balonchika was enough.
2. Ceramic grease — to lubricate new bolts in order to avoid subsequent problems with souring and boiling (for a long time and for yourself it is better to lubricate), (I think copper also rolled).
3. It is necessary to have 2 jacks (2 podkatnyh generally cool)
4. WD-40 naturally, what repairs without it.
The process of changing levers:
I will not describe the full process, because on the Internet a lot of information, consider the most important points:
1. Replacement of levers is made alternately on 2 sides with jacking the machine and removing the wheel.
(to jack up better high, so that the 2nd jack climbs then under the lever)
2. First, unscrew the bolt of the stabilizer bar from the side of the stabilizer, then the removal of the spring-loaded levers is made first of all from the side of the wheel, before pulling out the bolt it is necessary to undercut the lever so that the spring does not fire if you still manage to pull out the bolt. After you pulled the bolt from the wheel, you need 2 people: 1 holds the bottom of the lever, the second removes the jack, 1 gently lowers the lever until the spring is completely relaxed, after which the spring is pulled out and the already unscrewing bolt is unscrewed, the lever is completely removed.
3. The lower transverse levers are unlikely to be unscrewed — for this we need a gas burner, which we diligently melt the silencers that are attached to the bolts. (Be careful with the burner — do not melt the wiring and hoses, do not set anything on fire).
4! IMPORTANT! The spring on top and bottom has plastic gaskets. The upper gasket can be dropped when the spring is removed, the lower gasket remains 100% in the old levers and, naturally, these gaskets need to be moved to new levers.
5. Be sure to lubricate all the bolts, so that in a couple of years you will not have problems with the collapse of the task, and generally with their unscrewing if necessary.
6. Do not forget to shift the rubber bumpers from the old levers (the new ones cost about 400r / pcs, there is no point in buying)
I did not change the sickle-shaped upper wishbones; they have all the silencers apparently normally because of much lower loads.
The time for replacement took about 3 hours (all will be differently depending on how quickly it turns out to unscrew all the bolts).
Old spring-loaded levers
Old lower wishbones with burnt silicone blocks
stratified bushing of spring-loaded lever 1
stratified bush silencer 2
stratified cushioning of lower transverse link 1
stratified cushion of the lower control arm 2
I hope someone this article is useful.
I will be happy to answer your questions and naturally repost.
Good luck, see you on the roads and open spaces drive2.
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